Prada L'Eau Ambree: fragrance review

L'Eau Ambrée, maestra Miuccia’s latest fragrance, talks with the whispers of a ghost; an ectoplasmic take on the dry woody, patchouli and ~most imporantly~ ambery core of the original Prada fragrance mingled with the saline note of Eau de Merveilles that reproduced the scent of ambergris rather than sweet resinous amber (For more on the differences between amber and ambergris read this article). Ghost-like in its evanescence, gossamer-light, leaving behind but the memory of someone living in a grey-hued photograph that captures its ether.

This new gouache of an oriental is possibly the most skin-scent-like Prada ever issued, even more so than Infusion d'iris. One could even consider it an embryo of the idea of an "oriental" for the next decade and beyond: Will it induce hallucinations of orientalia beneath the gauzy veil to the modern day sylphids who worship at the altar of austere Prada? It remains to be seen. I see it as a step in that direction and the beginning of a new trend in perfumery.
Lovers of diaphanous ambergris creations and those able to smell Isabelle Doyen's L'Antimatière by Les Nez might find something to take them through every eventuality: The fragrance enters the scene in a light-through-the-tunnel vista, all hazy linings, via its refreshing top (which isn't quite as citrusy as purported nor is it rosy, but it's certainly cypress-like and with a micro-facet of white flowers tucked in someplace inside). And then it takes on a little tone of sweet, slightly salty sweat musk, not a tetrapod's raunchy howl, but the smell of seashore in spring and the bodies that lie down on its fluffy texture (cozy musks with no big sweetness have this effect). Yet the refinement of the drydown is so delicate that it could find its way along with your Prada frames and eponymous canvas tote to the office. And surprisingly for such a light scent it lasts too with a lingering trail, which as March put it: "It dries down and fades away but has a habit of popping up again and again, all day long".
According to Prada, 'L’Eau Ambrée is a perfume that ‘imposes itself discreetly with the perfect balance of classic influences and of modernity that is characteristic of Prada fragrances. This eau ‘twines complexity, freshness and harmony’ around a sleek, contemporary amber'.

L'Eau Ambrée, the latest in the Prada amber-based perfumes (amber is in the original Prada, as well as in Prada pour homme) was developed by perfumer Daniela Andrier and was launched this past September, with the expectation to be a permanent mainstay in the line unlike the ephemeron Infusion de Fleurs d'oranger.
Prada’s original bottle has taken a dark mantle here, adorned with a golden plaque instead of the silver of the original.

Prada L'Eau Ambrée is available through major department stores in Eau de Parfum 1oz/30ml, 1.7oz/50ml and 2.7oz/100ml.; Eau de parfum Deluxe refillable atomizer (with spray bulb) 2.7 oz/100ml and 2.7-oz./100ml refill; Body Lotion 6.8 oz./200ml; Bath & Shower Gel 6.8 oz./200ml; Body Cream 6.8 oz./200ml; Powder with powder puff 3.5 oz/100ml.

Notes for Prada L’Eau Ambrée:
Top: Citron, citrus, mandarin from Italy
Heart: Rose, gardenia jasminoides, patchouli
Base: Amber, vanilla, oppoponax

The advertisments are lovingly retro in an almost frieze-reprising way: a cheeky manner of eschewing the sexy-mania of other houses, a deliberate abhoring of seduction that comes from the mind of a true Marxist designer not interested in the man-hunting games of the western tradition, Miuccia Prada.





Michigan Central Station ghost, photo by Nicole Rork via michpics.wordpress.com
Acropolis Parthenon Hydrophoroi scene from the East frieze. Clips originally uploaded by gottalovebirds and stylistaonline on youtube

The fragrance of Ma-I: scent exhibition in Singapore

A scented exhibition is taking place at the Singapore Art Museum where the fragrance bar installated showcases fragrances with names like Squalor, Opulence and Pahinga (the last one evokes coconut massage oil memories of the creator's childhood.

"Filipino artist Christina Goldie Poblador has created the smells of a city: Think whiffs of gasoline or rotten eggs, which is supposed to remind people of government. There are more pleasant fragrances too, which are associated with friendship and family. Her fascinating mixed-media installation work, comprising 30 perfumes in handmade glass bottles, is titled Ang Halimuyak Ng Ma-I or The Fragrance Of Ma-I, the pre-colonial name of the Philippines.
The “fragrances” were created as part of her studio art graduation project at the University of Philippines in March. It created so much interest that it has travelled to three locations in Manila and made it to a prestigious Filipino art showcase here".

Read the rest of the article on this strange but interesting exhibition on The Malaysian Insider

Related reading on Perfumeshrine: Scented Memoirs.

Pic via travel-images.com

Christmas '09 Gifts Ideas: Special Flacons

Christmas is a prime time for treating others or you to that special something that seemed unatainable the rest of the year. Accordingly, perfume companies issue their very best, choicest , weirdest or just plain ginormous at the countdown till Christmas and the New Year (especially since they have been witnessing a 11% decline in sales). Here are some of the most impressive specimens this season.

Nasomatto (the line respendid with a manifesto) issued Black Afgano in a gigantic limited edition of extrait de parfum of 2000ml! (that's two liters of parfum folks, enough to last two lifetimes). Only 20 engraved packages are issued around the world. What can I say? You have to reaaaaaally love Black Afgano!



Thierry Mugler (and the Clarins company behind him distributing his fragrances line) is no stranger to the game of limited editions. Each year they bring on something out. This year the collector's Superstar flacon encrusted with Swarovski crystals is a staggering 14.2oz for an equally awe-inspiring 3,000$. Well... Another approach is story-telling: In collaboration with Givaudan, the Seven fashion boutique in New York created the Six Scents Series. Each of the 6 scents comes accompanied by a DVD that contains a film and photography that tells a story around the theme of each of them.

Others are more designer-cool: Frangrance by German designer Alexa Lixfeld extold the virtues of concrete-block lids and comes as a jarring surprise on one's vanity (the mere thought of it on a vanity is an oxymoron, come to think of it; you might want to exhibit it on a Phillipe Stark designed countertop or your Saab-hiding garage). Clearly just the bottle to jumpstart spirited discussions on contemporary design!




And there is also the angle of nostalgia. Grossmith (with whom we will occupy ourselves very soon, promise!) is a fragrance line originally founded in 1865 and regally worn by Queen Victoria. The commercial demise of the house in the middle of the 20th century left the brand in limbo until the great great grandson of the founder relaunched the scents with updated flacons subtly nodding to the retro bottles.





Pic via psfk.com, premiereavenue, saksfifthavenue

Smelling like dead celebrities?

"If you ever wanted to smell like Elvis or Marilyn Monroe? Now you can. According to the Daily News, a company in Beverly Hills is formulating a line of "antiquity" fragrances. The scents are based on the DNA of dead celebrities. Bottles of the perfume are sold online for about $60. Other celeb scents include Albert Einstein, Michael Jackson and Richard Nixon". [quote]



Nah....just go participate in our Perfumista Challenge Project.

CK ad manipulated by freakingnews.com

The Perfumista Challenge: A Project to Spread to those you Know

Sometimes one needs to shout in order to be heard. Sometimes one needs to kick people in the shin to get their attention. Sometimes one just needs to grab a public venue and challenge people in their perceptions in a much more civilised way. Which is what I am going to do today and I am calling every one of you who has been fed up to the brim with all the trashola that has been circulating under glossy names of TV personae and celebritoids from Sillyville and Trollopburg.
Namely today I am proposing and inviting you to the ultimate strikeback: Let's produce some fragrant juice ourselves!

No, I am not delirious. What are the chances that some amateur perfumista back in the wings has actually created a blend that is better than the bleh stuff in pretty (and not so pretty) bottles? Pretty high, I'd wager. After all, perfumistas do know a thing or two about what takes to put a nice sniff-fest together and hey, wait, didn't artisanal perfumers start with the proviso that they're blending things to suit their own taste? I am sure some of you have several oils which you mix for private enjoyment, some have a frustrated perfumer's soul, some even have chemistry kits and know a thing or two about reactions, emulsifiers and grape vs. grains alcohol; but the beauty of it all is you needn't really worry, this is not a race who is better, it's more for the fun of the thing and to prove to ourselves we can do it. (In the words of Dominique Dubrana, who's lauded by dr. Luca Turin, the biggest perfumery secret is that it's "rather easy to create something nice". There, you have insider's encouragement). Who knows, maybe someone's creation might be as good as to actually see the light of day in a wider circle and become our shared secret! Imagine the possibilities: Sillage de la Perfumista, Aqua sniffaholica, Εαρινή δρόσος φιλάρεσκων δεσποινίδων, et al... Not to mention the thrill of feeling of creating your own Galateia...

The idea was shaped by Liisa Wennervirta, following a discussion on Perfume Shrine about D-celebrities (or even DD-celebrities in some cases) constantly issuing utterly forgettable "products", who is in turn organising the whole thing. She's one hell of a witty lass with the quirk to bring this into fruition -she's been dabbling in blends herself- and you can be sent to her by me without reservations. [One doesn't need to be part of the clique to be perfectly legit ;-) ]

So here is how she wants this to be: "There'll be a simple swap round. Every participant will submit their address and they'll get another one where they'll send their creation. I wouldn't oblige the recipients to write a review or comment but it would be more fun if they did. To join the bunch of swappers, mail me at rosa (dot) pendulina (at) yahoo (dot) se. Closing date for participation submissions is December 31st."
If you'd like to take the info on your own blog or on a forum you participate, feel free to do so (and we would be grateful to you): the more participation we have, the more chances we can discover a raw talent in the dirt and the more fun we will all have in the process.

Now spread this to everyone you know times 10 or your precious rare Guerlain Baccarats will crumble in thin dust and your Chanels will turn into fermented beer on a hellishly hot day. Spread it! Participate! I have spoken...

Pic of Peter Cushing via umad.com, shot from Fritz Lang's Metropolis via dvdtimes.co.uk

The winners of the draw....

...for the free bottles of CKfree are Orchidfae and Michael K. Congrats!!

Please email me with your shipping addresses using the contact email in profile so I can forward it to the company (which will have these in the mail for you).
Thanks for playing everyone and till the next one!

Christmas '09 Gifts Ideas: Jo Malone

Jo Malone is spoiling us rotten this Christmas with nifty gifts and sets encased in their delicious waffle-like, chic packaging. Here is the round-up for your ease, take notes:



TEA BOX DELUXE CANDLE COLLECTION A suite of three Deluxe Candles are presented in a stately cream-coloured box accompanied with a silver-plated wick trimmer, candle snuffer and key. The Collection features Eau De Cologne, Parma Violets and Sweet Almond Macaroon Deluxe Candles; each candle includes an engraved Jo Malone Candle Lid. 3x400g for 395 $US

SCENTED TRAVEL CANDLES Add the finishing touches to your home by decorating the interior with the delicious scents of Amber & Sweet Orange, Grapefruit, Lime Blossom and Orange Blossom. Sold individually the travel candles are easy to get anyplace to add an ambience of style, sophistication and warmth in any room. Each Candle is 60g for 35$


COLOGNE COLLECTION The Cologne Collection celebrates the artistry of scent through six colognes in small atomisers in a luxurious box, allowing perfume lovers to get to know the Jo Malone line intimately. The scents may be worn alone or layered to create unique combinations. The collection includes Grapefruit, Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Pomegranate Noir, Sweet Lime & Cedar, Lime Basil & Mandarin and White Jasmine & Mint. 6 sprays x 9ml for 95$

BATH OIL COLLECTION An invitation to unwind via aroma. Six glass decanterswith six different scents to be used alone or in comvination. The collection includes Grapefruit, Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Pomegranate Noir, Sweet Lime & Cedar, Lime Basil & Mandarin and White Jasmine & Mint. 6 vials x30ml for 85$

LIME BASIL & MANDARIN fRAGRANCE CHRONICLE™ The Lime Basil & Mandarin fragrance Chronicle™ is a new idea: Combine accords to the classic rich citrus formula embellished with notes of aromatic herbs and sensual woods to create your very own compelling signature scent. Transform Lime Basil & Mandarin with the accords of Mandarin, Sweet Basil and Amberwood. The Chronicle includes Lime Basil & Mandarin Cologne 30ml, Mandarin Cologne Accord 9ml, Sweet Basil Cologne Accord 9ml, Amberwood Cologne Accord 9ml, all for 95$.

POMEGRANATE NOIR PAMPER KIT The limited-edition Pamper Kit includes Bath Oil, Shimmer Body Powder and Body Crème, all with the mysterious, regal scent of Pomegranate Noir.
Presented in the Jo Malone signature gift box the kit includes Bath Oil Glass Decanter 200ml, Shimmer Body Powder with Ultra Luxe Puff 70g, and Body Crème 175ml for 245$

POMEGRANATE NOIR DELUXE CANDLE Combining the sweet, fruity notes of raspberry, pink pepper and pomegranate with patchouli, frankincense and spicy woods, it comes with an engraved Jo Malone Candle Lid presented in a Jo Malone signature gift box. 400g for 130$

PINE & EUCALYPTUS COLLECTION Savor the season with Pine & Eucalyptus, a limited-edition scent from Jo Malone. The crisp aroma of pine is entwined with velvety eucalyptus to evoke the sense of winter. The Collection includes: Bath Soaps 3 x 100g 50$, Bath Oil 250ml 60$, Living Cologne 200ml for 95$, Home Candle 200g for 65$, Luxury Candle 2.5kg for 345$

Available at Jo Malone Shops, http://www.jomalone.com/, Bergdorf Goodman and in select Neiman Marcus and Saks fifth Avenue stores.

Info via press release. Pic of Christmas display via katie-d-i-d.blogspot.com

Caleche Fleurs de Mediteranee: reissue by Hermes

Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée, a variation on the classic Calèche is being re-issued by the house of Hermès for spring 2010. The till now discontinued fragrance, a limited edition in only 2500 bottles from 2003, is being brought back, as a line-up contestant alongside the many lovely variations on the classic Calèche (three of them being Kelly Calèche in all its concentrations of Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum and Parfum; all four versions were composed by Jean Claude Ellena, in-house perfumer)

Hermes presents it as "A voyage in a bottle. Perfume and wind know no barriers: they travel freely through air and over sea. In Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée, a warm breeze glides over the Mediterranean basin, delicately grazing the fragile white stars of Egyptian jasmine, rustling the skirts of the Turkish damascena rose, stroking the sunbathed blooms of Moroccan mimosa. Calèche, so characteristically elegant, so undeniably classic, reaffirms its femininity with Egyptian jasmine and Turkish rose. The Soie de Parfum of Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée plays with a daring hint of violet leaf, giving an invigorating tartness to its initially light, fruity scent. Joyously enlivened by a fresh breath of mimosa, it incarnates a youthful fragility, a distinctly contemporary clarity rounded to perfection by a gentle touch of heliotrope and beeswax – an echo of the powdery, honey-sweet note of mimosa absolute'.

Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée is therefore centered around that early spring yellow wonder, mimosa, "a precious yellow oil imbued with an airy yet sensual scent of astonishing softness and presence. 'Golden puffs, the downy tufts of new-born chicks," wrote the poet Francis Ponge in Le Mimosa. "The minuscule golden chicks of mimosa...", "powdered like Pierrot the pantomime in his yellow polka-dots”, “fireworks”, “tiny torches alight"...' [quote Francis Ponge , “ LE MIMOSA ” In La Rage de l’expression © Édition Gallimard . Authorised translation by Hermes, courtesy of editions Gallimard ~Fragrantica]

Available in Soie (Eau) de Parfum from Hermès boutiques as a pre-release.

News via Michelyn Camen Pic via Fragrantica

Chandler Burr Scent Dinner in New York City

If you're in New York City this December and with an appetite of combining scent learning and fine cuisine, another scent dinner organised by Chandler Burr is waiting for you.
The details are:

December 2, 2009 Scent Dinner
Two menus, one olfactory, created by Chandler Burr, The New York Times scent critic, and one culinary, created by Fabio Trabocchi, Exec. Chef of The Four Seasons Restaurant.

The Four Seasons Restaurant
99 East 52nd St.
(b/t Park & Lex)
New York NY 10022
212 754 9494

In the Pool Room. 7pm
Business Attire $250 per person, all inclusive

For Reservations please call or email:
Regina
212.759.9008
Regina@FourSeasonsRestaurant.com

Helena Rubinstein Wanted: fragrance review

Helena Rubinstein proposed that Wanted "unveils the ineffable and mysterious link that binds a woman to her love, a woman to her desires, a woman to her fragrance". Supposedly the name derives from the advertising phrase "All you've ever wanted" (Yeah, like another PhD, a second summer house, this one on Santorini so I don't end up paying exorbitant prices when there, and my offspring to behave at all times...fat chance I'll get! Anyway...)

The daring muse for Rubinstein's first foray in fragrance in 25 years (last one was the rococo typical of its era Barynia in 1985) is none other than Demi Moore, who I suppose is more daring for her choice of a much younger soulmate than anything else (no offence meant, just pondering on the "dare" factor these days). When all is said and done, more power to her and I have to note I always liked that, despite whatever procedure she has had done, she never plumped up her lips the way so many Hollywood stars do ending up like trouts. In the advertising commercial she showcases her best assets (come-hither eyes, great shape) and does a sexy speak-over with her husky, suggestive voice dressed in a Donna Karan look-alike dress (which if my memory serves me well had been her hit a decade ago).

On the other hand Wanted is daring to the degree that a chicken and asparagus casserole can be described as such: surely a nice combination of flavours, but not unheard of and the only folks who won't touch it with a six-feet pole are small children (and even then...). Likewise Wanted recalls to mind shades of Dolce & Gabanna's The One, in a lighter, more citrusy incarnation, and woodier rather than fruity-orientalised; stepping from the sauna with a lovely peignoir on the colour of cream, all pores cleansed and exctracted (the lily of the valley touches of "scrubbed clean" along with what I deduce are white musks at the base).
Magnolia grandiflora is shaping to be the newest iris (i.e. a huge trend) and after a dearth of florals in favour of gourmands, it seems they're getting back with a vengeance, possibly as a result of the mega hit of J'Adore by Dior which also features magnolia. In Wanted it's a fantasiacal accord of woody and creamy-floral facets (a special LMR extraction of ylang ylang) with a radiant dose of sugar spun crystals sprinkled on and an acqueous feel, which was inspired by a stay at Portofino of all places. It's certainly sweeter than Magnolia Nobile by Aqua di Parma. Perfumers Dominique Ropion and Carlos Benaim of IFF figured women who turned to their favourite cosmetics brand would expect a comforting, polished and rather delicate composition, like pampered face cream (similar approach in Eau de Fleur de Magnolia by Kenzo), that wouldn't have any hard edges, nor operatic throw-cushions the way white flowers are by their very nature rendered (and doesn't Ropion have tremendous experience with those!). Therefore fans of apocalyptical awe-inspiring florals will be disappointed, consumers with an eye on wearability will make it popular.

The bottle, designed by internationally renowned French jewels and furniture designer Hervé van der Straeten is elegant and striking in a industrial-sleekness-meets-1er arrondissement-sophistication , although the material doesn't look as luxurious up close and personal. (Or maybe I'm just extremely picky)




Notes for Helena Rubinstein Wanted: magnolia, ylang ylang and iris over cedar

Helena Rubinstein Wanted is available as Eau de Parfum 1.7 fl. oz. for $60/50ml for €70, Eau de Parfum 3.4 fl. oz. for $80/ 100ml for €100 and Body Lotion 6.6 fl. oz., $45; exclusively at Macy's from November 5th and at major department stores in Europe.

Pic of Demi Moore via cosmetic candy, Wanted bottle pic via bwconfidential.com

Ormonde Jayne 10% off the whole line

Come and see falling snow along London's Old Bond Street, rickshaw sleighs, Father Christmas, carol singers, musicians, bell ringers, roasted chestnuts and entertainers in period costume, all organised by the Bond Street Association.
You're invited at Ormonde Jayne for a glass of champagne and mince pies on:
Thursday 19th November from 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm
(12 The Royal Arcade28 Old Bond StreetLondon W1T. 0207 499 1100)
Bring this invitation along with you to receive a 10% discount on the night or shop online on Thursday the 19th November and receive a 10% discount by entering the promotional code 'NOEL' in the checkout page.
Joyeux Noël.

Info via press release.